I've seen it all. The polyester Fred Perry knock-offs that bobble after one wash. The "Oxford" shirts that are basically tissue paper. The polos where the collar goes wavy after a week. It's heartbreaking watching someone spend good money on rubbish.
So let's talk quality. Real quality. The stuff that matters when you're building a wardrobe that'll last longer than next month's paycheck.
The Fabric: Your First Clue
Touch it. Seriously. Before you even look at the label, run the fabric between your fingers.
Cotton: The Gold Standard
Proper cotton feels substantial. Not thick necessarily, but present. The best Oxford shirts have a slight texture – that's the Oxford weave. It should feel crisp but not stiff, smooth but not slippery.
Pima cotton: Longer fibres, softer feel, holds colour better. Ben Sherman use it in their premium lines.
Egyptian cotton: Even longer fibres. Expensive but worth it for special pieces.
Organic cotton: Not necessarily better quality, but often is because brands using it tend to care more about the whole process.
Watch out for cotton that feels too soft straight away. Probably been heavily processed or mixed with synthetics.
The Cotton-Poly Debate
Purists hate it, but cotton-poly blends have their place. Fred Perry polos are famously cotton-poly. Why? Durability, shape retention, less creasing.
Good blend: 60-80% cotton. Feels mostly natural, performs better than pure cotton.
Bad blend: Under 50% cotton. Feels plastic, doesn't breathe, pills like mad.
Tonic: The Mod Special
That shimmery two-tone fabric in tonic shirts? Should be mohair and wool, or mohair and synthetic. The good stuff catches light differently from every angle. Cheap versions just look shiny.
The Collar: Make or Break
This is where cheap shirts fall apart. Literally.
Polo Collars
A proper polo shirt collar stands up slightly when open, lies flat when buttoned. The knit should be tight and even. No loose threads, no wonky stitching.
Fred Perry collars have that distinctive twin tipping. It should be woven in, not printed on. Lambretta polos? Check the collar weight – should feel substantial, not floppy.
Red flag: Collars that curl up at the edges straight away. That's poor construction.
Shirt Collars
Button-down or not, the collar sets the tone. Good Oxford shirts have:
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Proper collar stands (the bit that goes round your neck)
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Reinforced collar points
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Smooth buttonholes if button-down
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No puckering where collar meets shirt
Gabicci do beautiful collar rolls. Trojan Records shirts have that perfect 60s collar shape.
Buttons and Fastenings
Small details, massive difference.
Mother of pearl buttons: The real deal. They feel cooler than plastic, have natural variation in pattern. Tap them against your teeth (weird but works) – plastic clicks, pearl doesn't.
Branded buttons: Ben Sherman stamp their name on buttons. Merc too. It's not just branding – it shows they've paid for custom buttons.
Spare button: Sewn inside the side seam or on the care label? That's confidence in their product lasting.
Zips on polos: Should be YKK or similar quality. Runs smooth, doesn't catch. Cheap zips are the first thing to break.
Pattern Matching: The Professional Touch
This separates high street from heritage.
Look at gingham shirts. Where the pocket meets the body, do the checks line up? They should. Same at shoulder seams, collar points, button placket.
Paisley shirts? The pattern should flow naturally, not have obvious repeats every few inches.
Stripes should match at seams. If they don't, it's been made quickly and cheaply.
The Details That Matter
Stitching
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Stitches per inch: More is generally better. 8-10 for shirts is good
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French seams: Look inside. Proper shirts have enclosed seams, not overlocked edges
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Armhole reinforcement: Check where sleeve meets body. Should be reinforced
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Bar tacks: Little reinforcement stitches at stress points (pocket corners, placket ends)
Cut and Fit
Quality Mod shirts have:
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Proper darts for shape (not just rectangular fabric)
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Side vents on casual shirts
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Correct sleeve length (mid-bicep for short, wrist bone for long)
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Hem that's even all around
Brand DNA: Who Does What Well
Fred Perry
The twin tipped polo is their signature. M3 is the original, M12 is Made in England. The difference? About £100 and slightly better construction. Worth it? Your call.
What to look for: Laurel wreath embroidery (not printed), twin tipping (woven not applied), proper weight pique cotton.
Ben Sherman
The Oxford shirt is their bread and butter. Signature button-down collar, back pleat with loop, branded buttons.
Quality varies by line. Heritage line is top tier. Regular line is good. Outlet line? Avoid.
Merc London
Merc do brilliant knitwear and polos. Their cotton is usually spot on. Check for their crown logo – should be embroidered, never printed.
Gabicci Vintage
Gabicci patterns are mental but the quality's there. Proper Italian-influenced cuts, quality fabrics, attention to detail.
Lambretta
Lambretta quality has improved massively. Their polos especially – proper weight, good colours, decent price point.
Trojan Records
Trojan shirts have that authentic skinhead/rude boy edge. Quality varies but their heritage pieces are solid.
Red Flags: What to Avoid
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Too cheap: If a Fred Perry is £20, it's fake
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Wrong logos: Laurel wreaths facing the wrong way, text misspelled
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Plastic smell: New clothes smell a bit, but strong chemical smell means heavy processing
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Inconsistent sizing: If mediums vary wildly between the same items, quality control's poor
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No care labels: Legal requirement. No label = no good
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Printed designs that feel thick: Will crack and peel
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Collars that won't stay down: Sign of poor interfacing
Care: Making Quality Last
Even the best shirts need proper care:
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Wash at 30°C: Hot water kills clothes
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Inside out: Protects colours and prints
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Don't overload: Clothes need room to move
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Air dry when possible: Tumble drying shortens lifespan
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Iron properly: Right temperature for fabric. Steam is your friend
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Hang properly: Shaped hangers for shirts, fold knits
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Rest between wears: Especially polos and knits
The Value Equation
A £100 Fred Perry that lasts five years costs £20 per year. A £25 knock-off that lasts six months costs £50 per year. Do the maths.
But it's not just economics. Good quality feels better, looks better, makes you feel better. That confidence? Worth more than the price difference.
Where to Start
If you're building from scratch:
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One quality white Oxford shirt – versatile, classic
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One proper polo – navy or white Fred Perry if possible
Get these right and you've got the foundation.
The Bottom Line
Quality isn't about price. I've seen expensive rubbish and cheap gems. It's about knowing what to look for. Feel the fabric. Check the details. Understand the construction.
And remember – authentic doesn't mean vintage or expensive. It means well-made, properly designed, built to last. Whether that's a Trojan Records polo or a vintage find, quality is quality.
Ready to invest in proper gear? Browse our authentic Mod clothing collection – we've been selling this stuff long enough to know what lasts. And if you're not sure about something, ring us. We'd rather help you get it right first time than process a return.