A pair of brogues is the easiest way to look smart without looking stiff. They have been part of the mod uniform since the early 1960s, and they still sit on the rails at Mazeys today because nothing else does the same job in the same way.
This guide covers where brogues came from, the different styles, how to wear yours and what to look for when buying.
Where Brogues Began
The word brogue comes from the Gaelic broc, meaning rough or coarse. The original brogue was a heavy work shoe made by Scottish and Irish farmers, with small holes punched into the leather to let water drain out as they walked through bogs. Practical, not pretty.
By the early 20th century the holes had moved from the sole to the upper, become decorative rather than functional, and the brogue had moved from the field to the city. Tailors in London and Edinburgh started cutting them in finer leathers, and they became the smart casual shoe of choice for British men. Mods picked them up in the 1960s and have not let them go.
The Three Main Brogue Styles
There are more variations than this, but most brogues fall into three families.
|
Style |
Description |
Best for |
|
Full brogue (wingtip) |
Pointed wing of perforations on the toe |
Suits, smart casual, weddings |
|
Half brogue |
Straight toe cap with perforations |
Office, smart trousers |
|
Quarter brogue |
Plain toe cap with light perforations |
Most formal, suits and dark trousers |
A fourth, less common style is the longwing, which extends the wingtip all the way back to the heel. It looks bold and works well with tonic trousers and casual mod outfits.
How to Wear Brogues
Brogues are versatile but they reward a bit of thought. Try these.
-
With a tonic suit. Black or oxblood full brogues with a tonic suit and a plain Oxford shirt. Classic mod evening look.
-
With Sta-Press. Brown half brogues with Sta-Press trousers and a Fred Perry. Northern Soul perfect.
-
With jeans. Tan brogues with dark indigo jeans, a button down and a Harrington jacket. Casual mod weekend.
-
With chinos. Burgundy brogues with stone chinos, a Tootal scarf and a sports jacket. Smart Sunday lunch.
-
All black. Black quarter brogues with black trousers and a black knitted polo. Sharp evening look that works at any age.
We covered footwear in detail in our accessories guide for context on how brogues fit alongside loafers, monkey boots and chelsea boots.
What to Look For When Buying
Cheap brogues exist, and most of them are not worth the leather they are pretending to be made from. A decent pair will last twenty years if you look after them. Check these.
-
Leather, not synthetic. Press the upper. It should feel dry and slightly grainy, not soft and squidgy.
-
Goodyear welt or proper stitching. Run your finger around the seam where the upper meets the sole. You should feel stitching, not glue.
-
Solid lining. Pull back the tongue. The inside of the shoe should be lined in leather or fabric, not raw foam.
-
Heel and toe shape. Mod brogues should have a slim, slightly tapered toe. Avoid square toed or overly chunky shapes.
-
Punching pattern. The perforations should be neat, evenly spaced and clean cut. Wonky punching is a sign of cheap manufacturing.
You can browse our current brogues collection for the styles we currently stock.
Looking After Your Brogues
A good pair will outlast a fast fashion wardrobe several times over. Look after them properly.
-
Use a shoe horn every time you put them on. Crushing the heel breaks the structure.
-
Rotate two pairs if you wear them daily. Leather needs a day off to dry out.
-
Polish every two or three weeks with a wax cream in a matching colour.
-
Use cedar shoe trees overnight. They keep the shape and absorb moisture.
-
Resole when the soles wear through. A good cobbler can do this two or three times before the upper needs replacing.
Brogue Colours That Work
Some colours work harder than others in a mod wardrobe.
-
Black is the most versatile. Buys you tonic suits, evening events and any colour trouser.
-
Oxblood is the mod classic. Pairs with everything from grey tonic to dark jeans.
-
Tan is summer ready. Best with chinos, light trousers and casual mod looks.
-
Brown sits between the other three. The safest pick for a first pair.
-
Two tone (black and white, or brown and cream) is the boldest move. Saved for proper occasions.
Brogues for Different Occasions
A single pair will get you a long way, but each occasion has its sweet spot. For a wedding, a black or oxblood full brogue paired with a tonic suit is hard to beat. For a soul night, a brown or oxblood half brogue keeps the silhouette light enough to dance in. For the office, a quarter brogue in black or dark brown reads smart without tipping into formal. For a Sunday in the pub, a tan longwing with chinos and a Fred Perry walks the line between casual and considered. Match the punching pattern to the formality of the room. The more decorative the brogue, the more relaxed the setting.
Why Brogues Still Belong
Brogues survive because they do something other shoes cannot. They are smart enough for a wedding and casual enough for a Saturday afternoon at the pub. They look better with age. They suit any trouser in your wardrobe, from tonic to denim. And every mod, suedehead and casual through six decades has agreed on that. There is no reason to fight it.
Shop the full brogues collection or browse the wider mod footwear range for loafers and chelsea boots to complete the wardrobe.