If you think Mod is just about sharp suits and scooters, you're only seeing part of the picture. The movement's fractured, evolved, and reinvented itself more times than The Who smashed their instruments. And each incarnation? It's left its mark on what we wear today.
The Original Modernists (1958-1962)
Let's start at the beginning. Late 50s London. The original Modernists weren't called Mods yet – that came later. These were working-class kids from East and South London who'd had enough of their parents' austerity Britain. They wanted jazz, they wanted coffee bars, and they wanted to look nothing like their dads.
The look was all about Italian style. Think narrow trousers (not the drainpipes of the Teds), short boxy jackets, and pointed shoes. They were obsessed with detail – the right amount of shirt cuff showing, the perfect knot in their tie. Sound familiar? Check any Italian-cut suit today and you'll see the DNA.
What they wore:
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Three-button suits in mohair or tonic
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Button-down shirts (American influence via jazz albums)
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Desert boots or Italian shoes
The Mod Explosion (1963-1964)
This is what most people picture. Carnaby Street. The Scene Club. Ready Steady Go. By '63, Mod had gone mainstream-ish. The Small Faces were on the radio, everyone wanted a parka, and you couldn't move for Vespas.
The clothes got bolder. Colour crept in – not just navy and grey but burgundy, bottle green, even pink if you were brave enough. Target roundels appeared on everything. The Who's Pete Townshend wore a jacket made from an actual Union Jack. Subtle? No. Iconic? Absolutely.
Essential pieces from this era:
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Fred Perry polos (the M3, specifically)
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Loafers and bowling shoes
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Parkas with fur hoods
The Hard Mods (1965-1966)
By '65, the scene was splitting. You had your art school Mods going all psychedelic and flowery (they'd become hippies soon enough). Then you had the Hard Mods. These lot weren't interested in peace and love. They wanted aggro, amphetamines, and all-nighters.
The look got tougher. Hair got shorter – crops and fringes rather than the French crew cuts. Ben Sherman shirts in gingham. Levi's 501s turned up to show white socks. Monkey boots or brogues replaced the delicate Italian shoes.
This is where it gets interesting. See those work boots? The braces? The aggression? The Hard Mods were becoming...
The First Skinheads (1968-1969)
Controversial opinion: the original Skinheads were Mods. Just evolved ones. Same obsession with clothes, same working-class pride, same music (soul and ska, not Oi!). They just took the Hard Mod look to its logical conclusion.
The uniform was strict:
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Button-down shirts (Ben Sherman or Brutus)
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Braces (not too wide)
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Dr. Martens boots (the famous 1460s arrived in 1960)
The Jamaican influence was massive. Skinheads loved reggae, ska, and rocksteady. They dressed like the Rude Boys they met in Brixton and Notting Hill. That's why pork pie hats and tonic suits were part of the look.
The Glory Boys and Smoothies (1970-1972)
As the 70s dawned, Skinhead had a problem. Too much violence, too much bad press. The smarter ones evolved again. Enter the Smoothies (also called Glory Boys in South London).
They grew their hair out slightly – hence "Smoothie" – and dressed up a bit. Think of them as Skinheads who'd got jobs in offices. Wider collar shirts, tank tops, Oxford bags (yes, flares – fight me).
Key pieces:
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Polo shirts (knitted ones especially)
The Revival (1979-1981)
Then came Quadrophenia. Suddenly, everyone wanted to be a Mod again. The Jam were massive. The Specials brought 2 Tone. Secret Affair, The Purple Hearts, The Chords – bands everywhere.
But this wasn't a carbon copy. Revival Mods mixed everything up. They'd wear 60s gear one day, skinhead clobber the next. Bowling shirts became huge. Fred Perry was everywhere. The fishtail parka became THE jacket.
Revival essentials:
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Jam shoes (the classic bowling shoe)
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Harringtons in every colour
The Scooter Boys (1980s)
Parallel to the Revival, you had Scooter Boys. These were the ones who cared more about their Lambrettas than their loafers. The look was practical – you're not wearing your best suit on a run to Brighton, are you?
Flight jackets replaced Harringtons. MA-1 bombers especially. Patches everywhere. Band t-shirts under open shirts. Still Mod-adjacent, but rougher round the edges.
The Acid Jazz Movement (Late 80s-Early 90s)
Just when you thought Mod was done evolving, along came Acid Jazz. Bands like The Brand New Heavies and Jamiroquai brought a new crowd in. The clothes went a bit baggy (it was the 90s), but the principles stayed the same.
Vintage sportswear got mixed with classic pieces. Kangol hats. Striped tops. Adidas trainers with Sta Press. It shouldn't have worked, but it did.
What It All Means Today
Here's the thing – these subcultures never really died. Walk down any high street and you'll see their influence. That bloke in the Harrington and jeans? He might not know he's channelling 1964. The kid in Dr. Martens and a Ben Sherman? Pure 1969.
The beauty is, you don't have to pick one era. Mix it up. Wear a 60s mohair suit with 90s trainers. Put a Trojan Records polo with contemporary slim trousers. The rules are more like guidelines now.
Building Your Look
If you're starting out, don't try to nail a specific year. Pick elements you like:
From the Modernists: Quality, fit, attention to detail From 60s Mods: Colour, confidence, mixing high and low From Skinheads: Toughness, authenticity, pride From Revival: Energy, music connection, tribalism From now: Freedom to mix it all up
Start with basics – a good polo shirt, decent trousers, proper shoes. Build from there.
Want to explore the full timeline of Mod style? Our complete Mod clothing collection has pieces from every era. Because whether you're a purist 60s face or mixing eras like a 90s acid jazzer, it's all about wearing it with conviction. The clothes don't make you Mod – but they definitely help.