Right, let's sort this out once and for all. I get asked this weekly: "What's the difference between Mod and Rockabilly?" Or "Isn't Northern Soul just Mod with different music?" No. No, it's not. They're cousins, maybe, but definitely not twins.
Each scene has its own look, its own rules, its own attitude. And before you mix them up at a weekender and get laughed out of the room, let me break it down for you.
Mod: The Sharp Sophisticates
We'll start here because, well, check the website name. Mod is about modernism, Italian style, and obsessive attention to detail. Think less is more, but that 'less' better be perfect.
The Look: Clean lines, slim fits, nothing flashy but everything considered. A Fred Perry polo tucked into Sta Press trousers. Desert boots or loafers. Harrington jacket if it's nippy.
Colours: Navy, black, white, burgundy. Maybe some racing green if you're feeling fruity. Subtle.
Hair: Originally French crew cuts. These days, anything neat. Definitely not a quiff.
Music: The Who, Small Faces, The Jam. Soul, R&B, ska.
Attitude: Cool, collected, slightly superior. You care about clothes but pretend you don't.
Key Pieces:
Rockabilly: The Rebel Greasers
Complete opposite end of the spectrum. Where Mods worship Italy, Rockabillies worship 1950s America. Think James Dean meets Elvis meets your local vintage car show.
The Look: Looser fits, rolled cuffs, visible rebellion. Bowling shirts open over white tees. Jeans cuffed to show boots. Everything has a bit more swagger, bit more volume.
Colours: Black, obviously. Red. Sometimes leopard print if you're feeling brave. Western patterns.
Hair: This is crucial. Quiffs, pompadours, DAs (duck's arse). Brylcreem by the bucket. The hair is half the look.
Music: Eddie Cochran, Gene Vincent, early Elvis. Modern psychobilly bands. Nothing after 1962.
Attitude: Rebellious, tough, deliberately retro. You ride a motorbike (or pretend you do).
Key Pieces:
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Leather jackets (not Harringtons)
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Wallet chains
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Band t-shirts (but only the right bands)
Northern Soul: The All-Night Athletes
Northern Soul split from Mod in the late 60s/early 70s. While Mods were getting into psychedelia, these lot were digging deeper into American soul. And they needed clothes they could dance in until 8am.
The Look: Baggy where Mod is tight. Practical where Rockabilly is posed. Oxford bags or wide trousers. Vests or polo shirts. Everything chosen for movement.
Colours: Often bright. Badges everywhere. Club patches on bags.
Hair: Whatever. Seriously. Nobody cares about your hair when you're spinning.
Music: Obscure 60s American soul. The rarer the better. If it charted, it's probably no good.
Attitude: Inclusive, passionate, slightly obsessive about records. You're here to dance, not pose.
Key Pieces:
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Bowling shoes (for spinning)
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Wide-leg trousers
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Sports bags (for your gear)
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Club badges
The Overlap: Where They Meet
Now, here's where it gets interesting. These scenes aren't completely separate:
Shoes: Bowling shoes work for both Mod and Northern Soul. Creepers bridge Rockabilly and later Mod.
Shirts: A good gingham check works for all three, styled differently.
Music: They all love soul, just different types. They all respect the originals.
Attitude: Working-class pride runs through all three.
How to Nail Each Look
The Perfect Mod Outfit
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Maybe a paisley scarf if you're feeling flash
The Perfect Rockabilly Outfit
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White t-shirt
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Blue jeans, cuffed
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Black bowling shirt, open
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Leather jacket (biker style)
The Perfect Northern Soul Outfit
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Oxford bags or wide trousers
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Sports bag covered in patches
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Towel (trust me, you'll need it)
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Don't Mix Randomly: A Harrington with a quiff looks confused. Pick a lane.
Don't Assume They're Interchangeable: Turning up to a Northern Soul night dressed like a Teddy Boy won't go down well.
Don't Fake It: Each scene values authenticity. Better to admit you're new than pretend you've been there since '64.
Don't Ignore Context: What works at a scooter rally might not work at a soul weekender.
Which Style Suits You?
Go Mod if: You like things neat, appreciate tailoring, prefer subtlety to flash
Go Rockabilly if: You want to stand out, love Americana, can commit to the hair
Go Northern Soul if: You're about the music first, comfort matters, you actually want to dance
Can You Mix Them?
Look, in 2024, you can do what you want. But if you're going to mix, do it knowingly. A Fred Perry with jeans and creepers? That could work. Bowling shirt with Sta Press? Maybe.
Just don't wear a full Rockabilly outfit with a target badge and wonder why people are confused.
Where to Shop Each Look
For Mod: Start with our complete Mod collection. Everything from suits to desert boots.
For Rockabilly: Check our Western and bowling shirts, plus vintage boots.
For Northern Soul: We've got the shoes, the polos, and even some proper soul merchandise.
The Bottom Line
These aren't just fashion choices – they're cultures with histories, music, and communities. Respect that. Learn about them. Then dress accordingly.
Whether you're drawn to Mod sharpness, Rockabilly rebellion, or Northern Soul passion, commit to it. Half-hearted doesn't work in any of these scenes.
And if you're still confused? Start with Mod. We're biased, obviously, but it's the most versatile. You can wear Mod gear anywhere and look appropriate. Try wearing a full Rockabilly outfit to Tesco and see how that goes.
Ready to pick your style? Browse our collections – we've got authentic gear for all three scenes. Just remember: whatever you choose, wear it with conviction. That's the one thing all these subcultures agree on.